Tears of the Moon

Let's talk pearls. Pearls are HOT now for everyone from fashionistas to conservative business women to people like me who simply cannot get enough of the magic that is a pearl.

It breaks my heart, though, to see so many people pay good money for bad pearls.

Al pearls are not equal; in fact, not all pearls are really pearls. Not only are there 13 types of genuine pearls, there are at least 4 kinds of faux and fake pearls (with more coming every day).

What most of us know as Pearl is the Genuine Cultured Pearl: Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian and Freshwater. The Japanese perfected the farmed oceanic Akoya Pearl, famous for its luster. Today, most Akoya pearls smaller than 7 or 8 mm come from China, though the Japanese import these cheaper Chinese Akoya Pearls and re-label them.

South Sea and Tahitian pearls originate in northern Australia and French Polynesia, and are most famous for their large size and stunning natural golden, cream, green and "black" color. These are fabuously expensive -- thousands of dollars for one nearly-perfect-pearl.

China holds the monopoly on Freshwater Pearls. If it's a modern Freshwater Pearl, it was farmed in China in or around Shanghai Province. China produces tons of Freshwater Pearls yearly, making Freshwater Pearls affordable for most of us.

When I look for pearls, I concentrate on the six factors that determine the pearls' value for the experts:

1. Most important is luster, which is the gleam or shine on the surface. A high-luster pearl seems to glow from inside and the surface is highly reflective. Low luster pearls have a dull sheen and low reflection.


2. Next is surface. Pearls are natural objects, so perfection is impossible. The more flawless the surface, therefore, the higher the quality and price. Avoid pearls with chips, cracks, holes and blotchy color. There are too many good pearls in the world for you to wear junk.


3. Then nacre. Nacre is the coating the oyster or mollusk lays down over the irritating nucleus of the pearl. A thin nacre coating will give you nice luster, but the thicker the better. Freshwater pearls are composted totally of nacre. So look for thick nacre.


4. Shape is next. Pearls are sold as round, semi-round and baroque. Semi-Round can be teardrops, barrels, elongated, flattened, etc. Baroque means the shape is abstract. Round is more valuable than semi-round and baroque. There are valuations with in the shapes. High luster trumps everything, remember. So choose your shape and get the highest luster and most blemish-free surface you can afford.


5. Color is the fifth and most subjective factor in pearl valuation. Americans prefer the white, cream and pinkish pearls. Europeans like the white; South Americans prefer the golden pearls. I prefer the dark rainbow pearls. Pearls dyed bright or unnatural colors are fads. Don't spend much on them, as they tend to fade, and this year's fashionable copper is next year's "been there, done that."


6. Size is the last factor and the most simple. Given equal luster, shape, surface and nacre, the larger the pear is the better and more expensive pearl.

When selecting pearls, I look for shape first, because my design determines the shape I need. Then I choose for luster, surface, nacre, color and size.

My advice to you is to know your pearl seller so you can trust what they tell you.